Manufacturers of High Quality Military Watches Since 1974

Aeschbach WW2 Pattern German Wehrmacht & Luftwaffe Dienstuhr (Army/Airforce Service Watch) with 17 Hand Wound Mechanical Movement

£239.00 GBP


Product Details


This hand-wound classic WW2 pattern Aeschbach* military watch, featuring a small subsidiary dial second hand, is based on the typical designs used by the German Luftwaffe and issued by the Reichsluftfahrtministerium (RLM / German Air Ministry). These watches did not remain in the possession of the Luftwaffe pilots and were issued on a mission-by-mission basis, to be returned to the quartermaster upon arrival back at the base. This watch is closely based on one of Aeschbach's WW2 designs. Although the original watches are now quite rare and tend to fetch high prices, this watch is outwardly almost indistinguishable from the factory's WW2 models. It retains the acrylic crystal used on the original watches, and the original 15-jewel hand-winding mechanical movement has been upgraded to a 17-jewel mechanical movement. The watch retains its original outward appearance while having the advantage of a few discreet updates to improve its suitability for daily use.

The original WW2 watches made for the Wehrmacht, Kriegsmarine, and Luftwaffe were produced by a large number of Swiss and German manufacturers, including Aeschbach, which was originally founded in 1923 and continues to exist to this day. Most of the watches were fairly similar, and while the British have the Dirty Dozen, collecting the German equivalents can be quite challenging due to the sheer number of suppliers at the time, comprising over 100 different manufacturers.

A group of military watch enthusiasts has compiled a list of the manufacturers, which appears on their website at this link: WW2 German Watches. The list seems to be almost complete; no doubt they would appreciate it if anyone could fill in the few remaining gaps.

This particular watch has a solid stainless steel case made from military-grade 316L stainless steel, a subsidiary dial second hand, hacking function, black dial, and luminous markings.


  • Case Diameter: 36.5 mm excluding crown, 39 mm including crown
  • Lug to Lug: 43 mm
  • Thickness: 13.5 mm
  • Lug Type: Spring strap bars
  • Dial Colour: Black
  • Case Material: 316L stainless steel
  • Caseback: 316L stainless steel
  • Crown: 316L stainless steel
  • Water Resistance: 5 ATM (50 m)
  • Movement: 17 Jewel Hand Wound Mechanical with 36 Hour Power Reserve
  • Glass: Plexiglass / Perspex
  • Luminous Material: Luminova
  • Serial number on caseback
  • Strap: Black Leather
  • Supplied in a box
  • 24 Months Guarantee

The History of Aeschbach Watches

The original WW2 watches made for the Wehrmacht, Kriegsmarine, and Luftwaffe were produced by a large number of Swiss and German manufacturers, including Aeschbach, originally founded in 1923 and continuing to exist to this day.

Aeschbach watches were a leading WWII manufacturer but faced significant misfortune during the war because they were located in Pforzheim, a town in southwestern Germany that was heavily bombed. The largest and most devastating raid was conducted by the Royal Air Force (RAF) on the evening of February 23, 1945. This attack resulted in the deaths of approximately 17,600 people, or 31.4% of the town's population, and destroyed about 83% of Pforzheim's buildings. The raid devastated two-thirds of the town and between 80% and 100% of the inner city. The Aeschbach workshops were completely destroyed, meaning that the watches could no longer be manufactured.

However, the company saw a revival some years back when a family member, while sorting through an elderly deceased relative's belongings, discovered that many of the original technical drawings and a quantity of watches had survived. This find enabled him to devise a plan to restart the company, marking the return of Aeschbach watches.

* MWC are official distributors for Aeschbach watches.


To wind the watch from an empty state to full, you'll need approximately 30 turns of the crown (most other hand-wound watches will need 40 or more turns, so this movement needs somewhat less). Once fully wound, the watch boasts an average power reserve of around 36 hours. It's crucial to exercise caution during the winding process.

For those who use the watch on a daily basis and wind it consistently, say, every morning, a slight variation in the number of turns will not significantly impact the overall power reserve because it will be well below the maximum of around 36 hours.

Some users have reported that 25 turns are sufficient when winding every 24 hours. This seems logical because the watch would not need a full wind after 24 hours. Nevertheless, individual preferences may vary, and most owners tend to develop a sense of the optimal winding routine within the first few days of ownership.

Above all, it's crucial to emphasize the importance of not overwinding the watch, which could lead to locking up issues or, worse, damage or breakage of the mainspring. Adhering to the recommended winding procedures ensures the longevity and proper functioning of the timepiece.

To clarify, overwinding occurs when a mechanism is wound beyond its designated stopping point, posing the risk of damage or even destruction to the winding mechanism. It's important to note that overwinding is a concern primarily for manually-wound watches, not for their automatic counterparts which normally cannot be overwound.

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